Sunday, September 27, 2009

A month in

A month in, and a bit more settled. Visits from David and Maggie, who both came bearing presents of olive oil and lokum! And of course catching up and good times. David and I spent a weekend in Lviv and also explored Kyiv. Maggie came for the bayram and we stayed in Kyiv, but saw quite a bit. Also managed to fill up a suitcase of decent wine and European cheese for her to bring back to Istanbul. I think this was a trip second only to the wonderful Indian (at Himalaya) we had our first night.

For those of you who are fans of David's photography, and I know there are quite a few of you out there, you can find his photos from the trip here. The Chernobyl album is here. I wanted to share one of my favorite of his pictures, taken on Andriyivskyi Uzviz in Kyiv:


There are so many things I like about this photograph. Most of all how it reminds me of seeing this couple at the time and thinking, "How ridiculously sweet..."

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This past week I attended an interesting conference titled "World War II and the (Re)Creation of Historical Memory in Contemporary Ukraine." Not in any way an area of expertise for me, so it was quite interesting to passively participate in. Also: Mariah Carey interference on my simultaneous translation device, reception at Polish Embassy, meeting academics at all levels of investment warning me about the dangers of graduate school, and all-night documentary film festival on Saturday. Unfortunately regarding the last item, I was not in attendance. Great idea, but I do think you'd need to be quite dedicated to not fall asleep just thinking about the following collection of words, all in one place: overnight. world war two. documentary. Shall I add: academics. Really, great idea though! I instead spent my Saturday night eating sushi, getting dragged to a place that some of us call the "underground military bar" (because it is actually underground, not because it is actually cool) to eat borsch and drink half a beer only to retire by 10.

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Settling in

I'm sitting on the balcony of my new Kyiv apartment, and although at times this weekend was quite sunny and a bit stifling, at the moment it feels more like autumn as the center winds down from the weekend.

I haven't written in awhile...there are still posts from both Kyrgyzstan and Georgia that never materialized. In theory I was going to finish these posts (half-written in my mind for months) before starting on my time in Kyiv, but if I do that it may be quite some time before I get out another post.

I'm studying Russian here for two months, then moving down to Simferopol to begin my research. Since arriving last week, I've managed to locate almost all my basic needs - SIM card, trusty neighbourhood cafes, flat, market. On the list of basic needs to be soon fulfilled: internet, French press, lamp to replace the one I've already broken (whoops).

Before I left for Kyiv, I found out that a friend of mine from Bishkek, a fellow Russian student named Michael, is also living here in Kyiv, working at a German NGO. He offered to let me stay with him until I found a place. I am so thankful for his hospitality. Waiting 90 minutes at passport control only to find out my baggage was lost and my prearranged driver had already left the airport, it was wonderful to know that I had a friendly face waiting for me somewhere out there is this new city.

So then I was left with the question of a more permanent residence. The language school I'm attending provides quite costly accommodation. I lucked out considerably when Brian, another student here, was approached on the marshrutka by a woman wanting to rent out her apartment. Unfortunately (for him), he had already found an apartment, so he passed it on to me. Bypassing both the school and real estate agents, I was thus able to find a cozy, affordable one-bedroom flat in the center.

For affordable groceries, however, I have to leave downtown, with its expensive loaves of bread and lack of fresh vegetables, and venture to less central markets and grocery stores. This is most certainly more than worth the effort, as now is a great time of year for fruits and veggies. Frequenting produce markets is my favorite way to slowly acquaint myself with both the food and the people of places I visit.

Aside from settling in and orienting myself, I've yet to see much of the city. Unfortunately I missed the Independence Day events waiting in Michael's apartment for delivery of my missing luggage. A friend (David, whom you may remember from a Kyrgyzstan post or two) will be visiting next week, and I hope to be able to show him around with a minimum of navigational blunders. I have yet to schedule the weekend's entertainment (aside from a day-trip to Chernobyl) - this weekend is the opening of the opera season, so opera tickets are naturally sold out. As a backup, I tried to get tickets to the Ukrainian theatre, but the woman in the kacca was not too keen on selling me tickets to Saturday's show..."But it is in Ukrainian!! You won't understand it!!!" I got scared and ran away.

Please send me an email if you would like my local address and/or telephone numbers, and add your address if you'd like to engage in low-tech correspondence.

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Things I missed about America

- Family

- Libraries. Even the Otsego Country Library, with a large selection of romance and western novels that is almost as large as the entirety of the non-fiction section.

- Approaching man-hole covers. Willfully stepping on them. Jumping up and down on them! Not worrying about falling in (Nevermind the teens who text and walk).

- Low-fat mint-chocolate chip ice cream

- Meijer/Target/Sam's Club/Costco: All in one shopping at a discount!

- Eavesdropping with ease

- Coffee-shops: without table service, with delicious coffee

Friday, July 10, 2009

Georgia photos and Michigan update

I've been in Michigan about two weeks now, enjoying time with my family and well-stocked supermarkets! Heidi just left for Graz last week for her summer music program. This weekend I'm going to visit my family in California. Next weekend an upper peninsula wedding reception/family reunion. And at the end of the month I'll head to Kiev for three months of language training before starting my Fulbright year in Crimea. Looking forward to it all.

I've just finished uploading some pictures from Georgia on Flickr. I've posted some of my favorites below. Although I travelled to many regions in Georgia, most of my favorite pictures were taken in the mountain regions I travelled to.



Wooden house, hike from Mestia


Svani Towers in Mestia



Kazbegi

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Clicking again soon

I've been off the radar for a few weeks, as I've been travelling in Turkey and Georgia. Now I'm home in Michigan visiting family, and should have some new pictures and stories up this week!

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Osh


The highlight of my time in Osh was by far sitting around drinking tea and eating delicious food in the city's many chaihanes. David took these pictures at one chaihane with particularly good shashlik that he spent the rest of his time in Kyrgyzstan searching for (but never found). Quite near the Uzbek border, Osh has a different feel than other parts of Kyrgyzstan I've been to. Reading this excerpt from Ryszard Kapuscinski's Imperium describing his stay in Uzbekistan, images from my trip immediately came to mind:

"Blinding sun fell on the square. Dogs wandered about. Tour groups were coming
out of the fortress, first the American women, then the children. Between the
fortress-turned museum and the mosque-turned-billiards hall sat Uzbeks drinking
tea. They sat in silence, facing the mosque, in accordance with the ways of the
fathers. There was a kind of dignity in the silent presence of these people, and
despite their worn gray smocks, they looked distinguished. I had the urge to
walk up to them and shake their hands. I wanted to express my respect in some
way, but didn't know how. in these men, in their bearing, in their wise calm,
was something that aroused my spontaneous and genuine admiration. They have sat
for generations in this chaykhana, which is old, perhaps older than the
fortress and the mosque. Many things are different now - many, but not all. One
can say that the world is changing, but it is not changing completely; in any
case it is not changing to the degree that an Uzbek cannot sit in a chaykhana
and drink tea even during working hours."

Thursday, May 7, 2009

Mountain holiday

I've been out of touch for awhile! Last week I had a break from my classes, and travelled to southern Kyrgyzstan with David, a friend from Istanbul. He's just sent me his Picasa album of the trip, which you should definitely check out.
Also, because I know you all miss my smiling, never photogenic face, here's a picture of me on a very lazy horse in Arslanbob, photo also compliments of David.



More updates to come.