Thursday, December 31, 2009

Happy New Year!


Happy New Year, Mutlu Yıllar, С Новым Годом, З Новим Роком!

After a last minute Aerosvit cancellation and no promise of another flight for the next week, I rung in the New Year by jumping into a moving train in Simferopol with my mom and sister so they could catch their connection in Kyiv. I saw them off this morning and am now spending a few days in Kyiv before heading back.

I've been wanting to share some New Year wishes from Ukrainian political candidates that I've been collecting, but unfortunately in the rush to the train I left Yanukovich and Yuschenko's pictures (and my laptop) at home. Here is what I have on hand:

Tiger Yulia wish you happiness in the year of the white tiger!


Tyhypko (and his stunning resemblance to John Edwards, as Heidi pointed out) wish you happiness!





And for good measure, best wishes for everyone's happiness from the head of the Beyoğlu Municipality, who has been emailing me ever since I attempted to use the free Beyoğlu wi-fi:


Something about political holiday wishes entertains me greatly.

Monday, December 28, 2009

Death and the Penguin, and the Kyiv Zoo


My mom and Heidi are visiting for winter break, and we spent last week in Kyiv and Lviv. With lots of travel time for reading, Heidi (above!) and I both just finished the English translation of the wonderful Death and the Penguin by Andrey Kurkov, who uses satire, dark humor and a little bit of the absurd in writing about today's Ukraine. Death and the Penguin is the first of Kurkov's novels featuring Viktor and his pet penguin Misha, purchased from the Kyiv Zoo when it was downsizing its collection to meet a post-Soviet budget.

In one chapter, Viktor takes the daughter of a colleague to the zoo.

Not many people were about. Following a sign saying TIGERS, he led Sonya along a snow-covered path past an enclosure with a large drawing of a zebra and a stencilled description of its life and habits.
"Where," asked Sonya, looking around, "are the animals?"
"Further on," he said encouragingly.
They passed more empty enclosures with boards descriptive of recent inmates, and came to a roofed-in area.
Here, behind thick iron bars, sat two tigers, a lion, a wolf, and other predators. At the entrance there was a notice:
FEED ONLY WITH FRESH MEAT AND BREAD
Neither of which they had.
They walked along the cages, stopping briefly at each.
"Where," asked Sonya, "are the penguins?"
. . .
Walking on, they came to an empty sunken enclosure with railings around it and a frozen lake in the middle. A board depicting penguins hung above the railings.
"Well, as you can see, there aren't any here," said Viktor.
"A pity," sighed Sonya. "We could have brought Misha to make friends with the others."
"Except, as you can see, there aren't any others," he repeated, stoppping down to her.
"What does still live here?" she asked.

As the book was written 10 years ago, it was therefore a bit disheartening (but perhaps not too surprising) to then find the following article on the Kyiv Zoo in the New York Times this week:
The Kiev Zoo, it seems, has seen better days. Ukraine’s government is in disarray and the political discord has been unrelenting — and, yes, now even the lions and tigers and bears have been drawn in.

The zoo was expelled from the European Association of Zoos and Aquaria in 2007 over poor conditions and mistreatment of animals. Advocates and former workers maintained that a giraffe and other animals died from the zoo’s ineptitude, and that money was siphoned from the zoo’s budget through corrupt schemes.

The zoo’s director was dismissed last year by Kiev’s eccentric mayor, Leonid M. Chernovetsky, after failing to find a mate for an elephant — or so Mr. Chernovetsky said. The new director has stirred an uproar among the staff for her supposedly tyrannical ways, and in October, a brawl erupted among workers during a celebration of the zoo’s centennial.

Saturday, December 19, 2009

секонд хенд спри


In a good example of an imported concept leading to an imported word, second hand or thrift shops in many Russian-speaking countries are known as секонд хенд (which is a Cyrillic transliteration of "second hand"), or just "Second Hand" with Latin letters. Overstocked items are often also sold at these stores, usually as "stock."

The story I frequently hear is that the products found in the shops are often donated by aid organizations and other countries with the intention of the goods being distributed to families and individuals in need. By some bureaucratic hiccup, however, many of the donated goods in the end are sold at these shops. At the store near my apartment, things are sold for 33 hryvnia a kilo (about two dollars a pound), except for some higher-quality items that are individually priced. Another store sells at 19 to 79 hryvnia a kilo, depending on the day. I just read an article on the blog Siberian Light in which the author talks about this trend and some of the buyer services that have sprung up around it:

Two young women from Kaliningrad, Youlia and Yuki, enjoyed looking for a diamond in the rough so much that they decided to help other women and men get unusual things at a low cost. At least once a week, the girls visit local second-hand stores, buy exciting clothing items, take their photos and post them on their lifejournal. Their online “friends” line up to buy things like menthol “Converse” keds, bronze patent leather clutch, and funky dresses by “Atmosphere.” Users can also create wishlists and the girls will seek out the coveted vintage dressed or fancy shoes for them.

Several other websites, modeled after “trendography,” have been springing up all over the Russian Internet. Most of them are run by women. In a country where only 20% of entrepreneurs are women, this trend is an immense achievement. It looks like the overstock items from the medium-priced Western brands help empower Russian women. Way to go, “H&M.”

So next time you think of donating your clothes to charity, it may be a charity of a completely unexpected kind: helping post-Soviet women start their businesses and look well-dressed. Quite an unusual charitable cause, isn’t it?

Average salaries in Ukraine don't go far in the world of fashion, especially as there are no Target-like department stores and their affordable but fashionable clothing. This makes the high standard of fashion and appearance many Ukrainian and Russian women hold themselves to particularly impressive.



I picked up some great finds at my local second hand a few weeks ago: these blue heels decorated with ducks (!), a leather handbag made in "Western Germany," and that cute blue skinny scarf, or whatever you would call it. Today Heidi, my mom and I hit up the second hand shop at the bus station and also found some great pieces- my mom came away with a great houndstooth coat and Heidi found a cute pair of black boots. I scored some cute white and blue loafers that unfortunately scream "urban hipster!" but were too cute to pass up.

More animal names, European languages version


I have comments people emailed me about my woodpecker post, and I thought I'd share.

My grandfather sent me the following email:

Woodpecker in Italian is il picchio and you can add the color behind to be more specific.
In Spanish Pacjaro and the a has a tick over it over it. It also means a nitwit or dummy. also called carpinterpo meaning carpenter
Pic in French
[German] der specht or buntspetch bunt is color

Now to try to understand how each derivation of the word for this bird in each language?


Maggie sent me an email that included the following word:

Smushers!!!!

But I have no idea which animal this is about.


Today I learned from Dictionary.com's word of the day e-mail that the word capricious is partially derived from the Italian word riccio, meaning hedgehog:

Capricious comes, via French, from Italian capriccio, a shivering, a shudder, finally (influenced by Italiancapra, goat) a whim, from capo, head (from Latin caput) + riccio, hedgehog (from Latin ericius). The basic idea is that of a head with hair standing on end, like the spines of a hedgehog.

This reminded me about the famous Soviet-era cartoon Hedgehog in the Fog. Continuing with the theme of this post, the Russian word for hedgehog is ëж, which is a common word for beginning Russian students to learn as it is a short word demonstrating the umlatted e. Perhaps it is also taught because of the popularity of the film? I'll have to find this film in the "public domain." It even has a Chrome theme.

Finally, the Turkish word for hedgehog is kirpi, from the same root kirpik, eyelash. Cuute! Our English word is from Middle English, and comes from what you think it does, hedge and hog. A hog in the hedge? Not so cute, at least in modern English. I've also just learned while looking up this etymology that there exists an adjective: hedgehoggy. The more you know...

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

tak tak!

Woody the Woodpecker in 1961, Wikipedia

I'm doing some homework and found a good excuse to take a break and blog.

Woodpecker - it is a cute word in English, right? What is a woodpecker? Why, it is that bird out there who pecks at wood all day long!

I just learned the word in Crimean Tatar, and it's такътакъ къуш (taq taq kush), or "tak tak bird." What a great name for such a noisy bird! A bit excited, I looked up the word in Turkish (ağaçkakan, which is a near-literal translation from English) and Russian (дятел), but the words were no where near as exciting.

Oh, but a bird by any other name would be just as adorable...even this "black-rumped fireback" tak tak bird I found on Wikipedia:

Anybody have any other cute animal names they're dying to share?

Sunday, December 13, 2009

The Color of Pomegranates




I've been taking advantage of "public domain" films (that's what Maggie's dad calls them) on You Tube and other sharing websites to improve my Russian. Sometimes you can even find them with quite good English translations. I grabbed the picture above as a screenshot from the film Sayat Nova (US title: Color of Pomegranates), which is a simply beautiful film directed by Sergei Parajanov about the life of the Armenian poet Sayat Nova, or Harutyun Sayatyan. I'd recommend.



Snow in Simf City!


Was it really only just a month ago I arrived and bragged about spotting tank tops?


Saturday, December 12, 2009

So what exactly have I been doing?


Perhaps it is about time I give a project-related update, lest you all think I'm spending my days perfecting my borscht recipe and dreaming about libraries.

My first month here has been considerably busy considering how little I feel I've gotten accomplished. At least 14 hours a week are filled with language lessons - I study Russian 10 hours a week with a private tutor, and Crimean Tatar for 4. I'm also trying to keep up with my Turkish by reading and listening to online news. I've heard about a Turkish conversation club at a local university that I think I'll attend with two aims - to keep my Turkish fresh and meet some new people outside the study-abroad crowd.

My other main preoccupation this past month has been graduate applications. I'm applying to Anthropology PhD programs for the second year in a row, but feel much better about things this time around. I'm applying to Michigan, Chicago, NYU, Berkeley, Washington University, Yale, UCSD and Indiana. My backup plan is a FLAS-funded regional studies MA, but I'll worry about that after the PhD applications are out of the way. It is amazing how time consuming (adult molar-grinding stressful?) this process is.

My project is slowing starting up. I've found an advisor at Tavrida University, Professor Adile Emirova, who has been extremely helpful and encouraging. She has connected me with a few more individuals and given me a great deal of materials to read, which I've been slowly but surely crawling through. After the application season and the holidays, I will have much more time to devote to visiting schools.

Every once in awhile I pop out for no other reason than to explore. There is a beautiful park near my house that I like to jog in, and a walk into town following the river that is quite nice (picture above). I've discovered an nice Indian Restaurant that is quite affordable, and came across a lokanta (named Mega Fast Food - Halal) yesterday with ezogelin worth writing home about (which I suppose is what I'm doing now). The market is my most frequent trip, and I'm enjoying some of my favorite fruits while they're in season. My fruit lady is always pretty happy to see me as she knows I'll fill up my entire backpack with her delicious tomatoes, apples, pomegranates and mandarins. But not the precious persimmons - must carry those by hand as they're so ripe they're threatening to burst. Wish I had a picture to share but suppose it will have to wait.

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Yes, Virginia, borscht does taste better the second day!


I think borscht could be the perfect American food for the holidays. First off, I do not believe there is a standard Christmas soup. The 4th of July has barbecue and hot dogs and Thanksgiving has Turkey. What could be a better time for soup than December! Second, it's red. Now all we need is Heintz to create green sour cream, and we've got a new American classic.

I've been playing around with my borscht recipe since my roommates in Bishkek shared theirs with me in April. I made a particularly tasty version yesterday, which was even better today. For my dear cold-climate dwelling readers, I thought I'd share with you my recipe to help you through this winter.

A quick note: I cheat with my borscht, as I don't add meat and I don't make a stock ahead of time. I doubt I've got any stickler babushki reading my blog, but if so, let me say it now... I don't claim this recipe to be authentic! That being said, I suppose there is no "one" way to make it. Poking around a bit on recipe sites, this recipe seems to be a safe bet, however, so take a look if you're interested.



My Borscht Recipe, estimated

2 onions
Fresh or dried parsley
Fresh or dried dill
4 cloves of garlic
2 beets
bouillon (optional)
3 potatoes
1 carrot
Parsnips and celery (optional)
Salt and pepper
1 small head of cabbage
Sour cream (garnish)

Chop the onions and garlic. Sauté them over low heat with the parsley and dill. Add tomatoes.

Peel and prepare the beets. They should be chopped in "sticks" rather than cubes. Add these to the pan and sauté for about 10 minutes more.

Heat up some water in a big pot, and if you feel like it add some bouillon. Add the mess you've sautéed in the pan.

Chop up potatoes and carrots in sticks as well, if for no other reason than they look good like that and the Ukrainians seem to do it that way. You can also prepare other vegetables to add, such as parsnips, celery, or whatever you have lying around. Borscht can be a bit of a stone soup in that way. Throw all of this into the pot. Chop up a small cabbage, or half a head of a large one. Purple or green can work.

Now you can add more parsley and dill, as well as salt and pepper. Go ahead and add Mrs. Dash as well if you feel like it. Let it simmer for an hour. Serve with sour cream. Bread is pretty good with it as well, but of course the best of all is pampushki. These are delicious (and adorable) garlic-buttery buns.

Of course you'll be hungry when it is finished, but if you've made enough you can wait until the next day to have the (even better) leftovers.

If you try it out, please let me know in the comments. I'd also love to hear any of your own borscht recipes you're hiding!

Postcards

As you may remember from a previous post, I've been finding all sorts of things in my apartment left by previous tenants. I suppose if I started looking through the pile of my landlord's boxes in my bedroom:



I'd find even more.


Something notable I just found in a drawer is a collection of postcards from the 60's, 70's and 80's featuring various Soviet monuments and buildings. I'm still not sure how I feel about collecting Soviet memorabilia, but these postcards are interesting and shouldn't just be lying in a drawer. I would in theory feel bad about breaking up the sets, but a few already seem to be missing.



I've been looking for an excuse to get back in touch with people and send some postcards. Leave a comment or send an email with your mailing address if you'd like one. And on the off chance I have readers of this blog I don't know personally, I'd love to send you a postcard too! Just send me your address. They may come in an envelope as some are too large to send as a postcard.

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Another bit of writing about reading

While the potential list of topics for self-indulgent blog posts is perhaps endless, I am sure writing about reading must be one of the more common themes. I know I shouldn't join in (who am I, Anne Fadiman?), but nonetheless I can't resist.

Living abroad my relationship with books has changed considerably, especially with English-language books. Sure, it is nice to immerse yourself by diving into the local literature - but who am I kidding. I've been reading English for 20 years, Turkish for 3 and Russian for only 1... and there is nothing like flying through a book in a native language.

In Istanbul I was spoiled. With Pandora and Robinson Crusoe, there was no real reason not to have my hands on nearly any English book I wanted, if I didn't mind a wait and paying full price. Their in-store selections as well are wonderful and make for good browsing. In Ukraine I haven't had as much luck; I found exactly two English books I wanted in Kyiv, and have yet to have anything catch my interest here in Simferopol. Although New Headway English Course: Intermediate seems tempting.



But not a drop to drink

No, here I have the books I brought with or a sea of Russian. The only other alternatives I seem to have at the moment are trading books with missionaries or getting into the pdf book swapping scene.

It is not even a matter of specific books that I want. You could offer to send me any 3 books I wanted and I would still complain. The ability to go to a library - even not a particularly good one - and pick from a selection of books that I may want to read. That is what I want!

This next part may be controversial, but so be it. It is not even that I necessarily need to be able to read the books. Let them lay around on the desk, the bed, the floor. I'd like to check out a few books, similar or wildly different, leave them stacked up for a week or two while I read one or two or a little of all, or even none at all, and then return them for another collection, chosen completely by whim. So what if my love of books is related to but also separate from my love of reading. Should a letter writer feel guilty about collecting stamps?


The stacks

When I was in Gaylord this summer, I paid a few visits to the Otsego County Library. The silver lining in the meager selection is the impossibility of browsing without reminders of past visits. Every time I go I see a few books that spent some time on my desk (or floor), even if I didn't exactly read them. A failed attempt to teach myself German. A childhood obsession with Miss Manners.

On my last visit, I picked up Nabokov's Pnin, which I had never read before. I fell in love with the book, and even more so the edition:



Confession: I wanted to steal the library book. I wanted it to be mine. Mine! Never mind there are plenty of other residents of Otsego County who are still to discover this wonderful edition of Pnin, or even Nabokov himself, who of course should not be deprived of such an opportunity.

One of Heidi's friends cited some alleged OCL policy where each patron may "lose" one library book in the lifetime without penalty. Sounded to me like the "students can leave if the teacher is 15 minutes late" rule, but I briefly considered. Regardless of the fact that my go was probably used up when I was a child and the library unfairly accused me of losing some book about a mouse, it didn't seem right. But as I searched online for a picture of that cover to accompany this post, I came across an even better edition. Now if this had been the copy in question I might have had to reconsider.




Want. And no, I don't read Nabokov in Russian, as I can hardly comprehend him in English.

(Of course, for perhaps one of the best editions of all, sneak a look here. Also thanks to Life's archives, you can imagine this as an early version.)

My own libraries, at home and in expatia

Of course I would never go through with stealing a library book. Not even saying I'd lost the book to see if the replacement fee was cheaper than that edition on the used market. Why, that is worse than littering in front of the courthouse, lying on a census or not voting! Try as I may, I am stuck with a deep respect for the institution of the library. Even good ol' OCL.

In fact, as a young, asthmatic perfectionist, I even attempted to create my own. My first act as librarian of the basement was to organize the fiction. Cutting tiny white stickers out of nametags and placing them on the binding of the books, I carefully marked the books with two lines of text. So Matilda looked like this:

FIC
Dah

The non-fiction was a problem, as I did not possess the magical "key" to figure out how books were assigned call numbers under the Dewey Decimal System. I spent a good deal of time trying to solve this problem. I believe I might have been planning to ask our librarian for a "list" before my mother intervened. That is how I remember it, anyhow.

After my first trip to a university library, I lost all remaining faith in Dewey as I learned that not all followed his mysterious code. So like most private collectors, I created my own system. In my little corner of Simferopol, with my small assortment of books, I've settled on the following: books I'm working on strewn in the comfortable reading zones of the flat, the largest four volumes forming makeshift stands for electronics, and the remaining, after much contemplation, organized by some combination of aesthetics and size without heed to subject matter.

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

İyi Bayramlar, albiet a bit late

This blog as been a bit neglected this week while working on graduate applications. 1 down, 6 to go!

I've been watching videos of the Crimean News Agency (Qırım Haber Ajansı) to follow the local news and to get exposure to the Crimean Tatar language.

Thought any Turkophones reading this blog might be curious about the Crimean Tatar language. I'm no expert, but I'll be making a post soon about my experience so far studying it. The following video is about different Crimean Tatar dishes, especially those made at a specific restaurant in preparation for Kurban Bayrami (Eid al-Adha). This year the bayram fell on the same weekend as Thanksgiving, celebrated from Friday to Monday.





Looks pretty good to me...