Here is a secret - we didn't actually trek the entire Lycian Way (that would take weeks...of hard work!), and we didn't even actually carry our stuff. We just based ourselves in towns along the way and made day trips, finding a bus or a kind local to take us back to our accommodation at the end of the day.
We started out in Fethiye,which is far from the road less travelled, but nice nonetheless. Especially in April, before the tourist season heats up too much, it makes a good base for day trips.
My advice in case you ever make it there, and I hope you do
1. If you ever see this in a pension in Fethiye (or anywhere for that matter), run away. Fast. Yes, that is dust on cobwebs on nudity.
2. For dinner, stop by the Fish Market. They've got a great system going that really is a win-win for everyone involved. You buy a fish from market, which is really just an island of fish sellers surrounded by cute restaurants outflowing into the square. Take your bag o' fish to any of the restaurants in the circle (preferably one that already looks full of rakı-soaked locals) and hand it to your server. For 5 TL (about 3 dollars), they'll prepare your fish and also bring you salad and bread. Of course rakı and mezeler aren't included in the price, but certainly necessary for the experience.
David choosing fish
Aforementioned rakı-soaked locals (David took this shot, I was too shy!)
But I got this one, after waiting for 20 minutes for him to finish off his drink and letting my fish get cold.
3. For breakfast, don't be tempted by the cacophony of establishments screaming "TURKISH BREAKFAST." Yes, Turkish breakfasts are good, but chances are you'll get your fill of them by the time you leave Turkey anyway. So wander around town and look for a nice small place serving menemen or almost any type of börek.
This börek place had a small but delicious variety: spinach, cheese, meat, spinach and cheese. An order came with tomato and cucumber on the side and some spicy little peppers.
At least I found them spicy.
David did not.
4. If you get a chance - especially if you can't make it out here - watch the 2006 Turkish film Dondurmam Gaymak. It is available with English subtitles and the international title is "Ice Cream, I Scream." But the Turkish title - Dondurmam Gaymak - means "My ice cream is creamy," and is a poke at how a village ice cream seller might call out for customers...over and over again.
Sidetracked - I love the unique ways sellers call out with their goods. Dondurmam gaymaaaak!! It reminds me of the old second hand buyer that used to wander around my neighborhood and wail "eskiciiiiiiiiiiiiiii," not sounding much unlike a goat. When I was travelling with Kelly to Ephesus, there was an old man selling figs to tourists. He yelled out in English: "Freeeiissshhhh Fiieeeegs!!" My heart melted.
Back to the point - Why watch this film? It is a great picture of village life in this part of Turkey. I love the scene with the shepherd grazing his sheep in a ruined amphitheater. There are so many layers of history throughout Turkey, but here especially its reminders pop up everywhere and weave their way into daily life.
Amphitheater by the Fethiye port, near the pension with the statue of the horrible spiderweb Medusa. Seemed quite the teenage hangout as well.
And if you go to the right place, damn, the dondurma might as well be kaymak.
Baklava, sakızlı dondurma and tea
Next post - some actual tourist attractions, so you don't think all I did on this vacation was eat...
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